Alsace Looks East
If there's one thing about modern life
that you can count on it's that everything changes. That's
certainly true of the way we Brits like to eat. Once the most
conservative of countries in culinary terms, these days we like
nothing better than to tuck into curries, sushi and stir-fries -
even traditional European dishes are often given an Asian
twist.
But although we explore a universe of
culinary possibilities with gusto, when it comes to matching the
more exotic dishes with wine it can be easy to get a little lost -
after all, you can't fall back on the time-honoured European
convention of drinking a wine that comes from the same region as
the dish. Those in the know, however, have discovered a fail-safe
recipe for wine-matching success: the wines of Alsace.
Food/wine matching chart
| |
Pinot Blanc |
Riesling |
Pinot Gris |
Gewurztraminer |
Crémant
d'Alsace |
| Sushi |
 |
|
|
|
|
| Spring rolls |
|
|
|
|
|
| Thai crab cakes with sweet and sour
sauce |
|
|
|
|
|
| Dim sum |
|
|
|
|
|
| Spicy/sweet and sour fish |
|
|
|
|
|
| Pad Thai noodles |
|
|
|
|
|
| Peking duck |
|
|
|
|
|
| Chicken tikka masala |
|
|
|
|
|
| Pork and noodle stir fry |
|
|
|
|
|
| Thai curry (lime and coconut
flavours) |
|
|
|
|
|
| Tandoori flavours |
|
|
|
|
|
| Indian curry |
|
|
|
|
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| Pineapple fritters |
|
|
|
|
|
| Lychees |
|
|
|
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Although Alsace is one of France's
most northerly wine-growing regions, the protection afforded by the
Vosges Mountains creates a sheltered hot-spot in which vines
thrive. In addition, a diverse patchwork of soils helps to create a
diversity of styles, while the region's reputation for purity of
fruit is enhanced by the fact that oak is never used in the
production of Alsace's white wines.
A number of grape varieties are
permitted in Alsace, including Pinot Noir (the region's only
permitted red grape), Muscat and Sylvaner. But foremost among the
region's grapes - in gastronomic terms, at least - are Pinot Blanc,
Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer.
The unmistakeable lychee and rose aromas of
Gewurztraminer give it the power to stand up to richly flavoured
dishes. The grape is renowned for being able to partner spicy
Indian curries, but you shouldn't rule them out of contention if
you're looking for something to match with a Singaporean laksa,
chilli-hot Szechuan stir-fries and anything cooked in coconut
milk.
Versatile Riesling is the ideal match
for delicate Japanese dishes like sashimi and tempura seafood. It
can also work wonders as an accompaniment to Thai salads and
stir-fries, especially those flavoured with lemongrass and kaffir
lime leaves.
The simple elegance of Vietnamese
cuisine is also highlighted by lighter styles of Riesling, whereas
richer wines such as Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer can make
wonderful mouth music with the heavier flavours and textures of dim
sum and Cantonese or Shanghainese dishes.
Earthy, full-bodied Pinot Gris can take on rich
flavours. Try a bottle with Peking duck, Malaysian stir-fries and
curries and all kinds of Thai dishes. Japanese dishes are also
enhanced by a partnership with Pinot Gris, particularly teppanyaki
or yakitori dishes. And, while many whites don't have the
personality to stand up to meaty dishes, Pinot Gris more than holds
its own with spicy pork and even beef - and, for a real flavour
explosion, try an aged Pinot Gris with a mushroom-based dish.
With fresh and well-balanced aromas,
Pinot Blanc is softer in style than its Gris cousin, so team it
with lighter dishes. It's possibly an even better match for sushi
than Riesling, as it can work better with the texture and sweetness
of the rice, and it goes down a treat with tempura. Most Chinese
dishes work well with Pinot Gris, as do many Vietnamese and Thai
stir-fries.
One rule of thumb is worth bearing in
mind - the sweeter or hotter the dish, the sweeter and richer the
wine should be. But with Alsace whites made in a variety of styles
that range from bone dry to lusciously sweet, there should be
something that's just right, whatever you're planning to eat.